Lots of foods exploded onto the scene in the 1980s and 1990s, but Salsa is in a category all to itself. Salsa wasn’t just an explosion, it was an earthquake. Ok, I’ll stop.
Salsa became the number one condiment in the United States in 1991, beating out ketchup:
Dave Pace, who in 1947 bottled and sold the first commercial salsa in the United States, is amused by the ethnic explosion.
“In ‘47, my sauce bottles exploded all over the grocery shelves because I couldn’t get the darned formula right,” said the 78-year-old Mr. Pace, who retired last year from Pace Foods Inc. in San Antonio, where he still lives. “In the 70’s, the business exploded when the hippies came along. No question but this health stuff made the whole category explode, and it just tickles me to see these people take the ball and run with it." 1
I think Pace’s NEW YORK CITY?!?! commercials helped drive Pace’s sales up too. For those who don’t remember, the commercials would be these cowboys in the desert, eating dinner. They would always run out of Pace Picante Sauce, and of course, someone would offer them their salsa made in (get this!) New York City instead of out west. Noo Yorkers apparently don’t know what salsa should take like.
Also, to a much, much lesser extent, those Chris Elliott Tostios commercials.
Heinz, the Ketchup empire, tried to compete with Salsa-Style Ketchup, but it failed:
Well, do we ever stand corrected – not to mention relieved. From time to time we’ve noted that, these days, salsa outsells ketchup in the United States. And that’s what we keep reading in the food-industry periodicals. But, chatting with a representative of Heinz USA the other day, we learned that ketchup is, in fact, holding its own. Yes, salsa is a bigger seller in dollar amounts (after all, salsas tend to be "fancy” products that sell at fancier prices than plain ol’ ketchup). But ounce for ounce, ketchup still outsells the chunky stuff – 10 billion ounces of ketchup consumed a year against 4 billion ounces of salsa. Whew. We feel all-American again. Of course, Heinz was calling to tell us about its new product – Salsa Style Ketchup. Oh, well. 3
Salsa even became a vegetable in kids’ lunches in 1998: 2
What made me think of Salsa exploding in the 90s, was the first season episode of Everybody Loves Raymond where Frank is on his own because him and Marie got in a fight. One of the things he does is buy his own groceries for the first time. He falls in love with the salsa handed out by the sample lady:
Frank: I went to the supermarket.
Raymond: Yeah.
F: I want you to taste this great new thing they have now.
It’s called salsa.
R: I’ve had salsa, Dad.
F: I bet you never put it on a chip.
R: Yeah, even on a chip.
I know.
It’s good.
F: Good? It’s genius.
And the woman in the supermarket was giving it away.
No charge.
R: That’s called a sample, Dad.
I must have had 50 of them.
No, this woman, she was great.
R: She had on a big sombrero, she was sitting on a plastic burro.
I’ll take you to see her.
[…]
Frank: Are you ready for the surprise?
Deborah: I’m starved.
F: Okay.Here it is.A dinner of eggs. But not just any eggs. Eggs with salsa on them. They’re called huevos rancheros. This dish is gonna sweep the nation. Yes, sir. Fill your face. I made mucho.
Deborah: Thank you.That’s really sweet of you,
Frank.I can be sweet.It takes people time to discover that.
Deborah dancing around with chips and salsa was the hottest scene in the series.
One recipe Frank didn’t “create” was Velveeta + Salsa, which was popularized by commercials in the mid 90s.
1. O’Neill, Molly, “New Mainstream: Hot Dogs, Apple Pie and Salsa”, New York Times, March 11, 1992. http://www.nytimes.com/1992/03/11/garden/new-mainstream-hot-dogs-apple-pie-and-salsa.html.
2. “Hot News! Salsa is a Vegetable”, Tuscaloosa News, July 1, 1998. https://news.google.com/newspapers?nid=1817&dat=19980701&id=Vz0dAAAAIBAJ&sjid=RqYEAAAAIBAJ&pg=3029,8428&hl=en
3. “On the Fridge”, Washington Post, September 22, 1993. https://www.washingtonpost.com/archive/lifestyle/food/1993/09/22/on-the-fridge/d76feacd-fe5e-451d-aa1f-9e4bcf3d1bff/?utm_term=.b529c2b0c54a
https://www.theatlantic.com/magazine/archive/1997/05/the-salsa-sectors/376871/
Related links:
The Best Salsa from a Jar – Tostitos, Pace, Newman’s Own – Thrillist
The Best Store-Bought Salsas | Real Simple
Nash Bridges – Loco Joe’s Family Style Salsa Commercial
Riding Salsa’s Coast-to-Coast Wave of Popularity
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